Victorian Hair- 1840-1890

1840- Hair was worn closer to the head in a high bun or knot. Hair was usually parted at the center with isolated curls at the sides also referred to as spaniel curls.

It was also popular to have hair parted at the centre with both sides plaited , drooped over ears and pinned into a bun at the back (displayed in portrait below) 

1840 Alexandra Nikolaievna by Christina Robertson

 http://www.gogmsite.net/russian-style-between-1837-/grand-duchess-alexandra-nik/1840-alexandra-nikolaievna-.html

Spaniel curls

1841 Olga Nikolaevna by Christina Robertson 

http://www.gogmsite.net/early_victorian_-_1837_-_18/queen_olga_of_wurttemberg/1841_olga_nikolaevna_by_chr_2.html

Hats- Linen caps were worn with frills, lace and ribbon worn by married women indoors and in the garden with a parasol 

http://www.1860-1960.com/xc906p0.html

by christina robertson 

For evening feathers, pearls, lace or ribbons were worn. 

1850- 

Hair was very similar to the previous decade with women sporting curly tendrals on the sides, middle partings and high buns. 

 

1850 Lady Einsle 

http://gogm.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/1867/28237

In 1860  the bun had dropped to the nape of the neck rather than the top of the head and women seemed to become more experimental with their hair.

http://uk.pinterest.com/pin/284500901434987712/

'A headdress of lilac velvet petunias has groups of palm leaves and a double chain of gutta percha is carried round the head. In front, among the palm leaves, is an enameled blue and green golden serpent.'

http://www.victoriana.com/Victorian-Fashion/civilwarhairstyles.htm

In the 1870's hair was pulled back at the sides and into a bun
or a fringe of ringlets. 


http://www.onlinegalleries.com/archive/552



in 1880 hair was pulled back 

at the sides and pulled back into a low bun ,later into the year hair was swept to the top  with Josephine curls.


1890 curly fringe , top knot , gibson girl , mid 90s loose and wavy  
at the end of the decade hair worn in large mass with bun at the top of head. 

A Look Into Gothic Horror: Boris Karloff 1887-1869

Boris Karloff- Active years 1909-1969

 http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0000472/

when my minds off the Victorian subject and focusing on Gothic horror the first person that came to mind was actor Boris Karloff. Boris Karloff was born in 'William Henry Pratt' 1887 London (so technically born a Victorian although his career didn't come till after the Victorian era!)
Anyway before his career he studied at London university then eloped to Canada with the first of his 6 wives, Grace Harding. upon arrival in Canada Karloff worked as a laborer until he traveled to hollywood and spent 10 years as a character actor eventually appearing in 204 tv series and films including Frankenstein 1931, The mummy 1932 and the walking dead 1936.
 http://www.biography.com/people/boris-karloff-9360446




Frankensteins monster 1931

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/theatre/8850996/Boris-Karloff-helps-the-Young-Vic-from-beyond-the-grave.html

So what was beauty?

Being on a make-up course the first thing we would look at is the beauty ideals of the era, from my understanding Victorians wore little to no make-up as it was more common to have a full face of make-up on when you was a prostitute or actress.

Just like the Elizabethans it was still very common to have pale skin but different methods were used.  Instead of using thick toxic mixtures to add to the skin; the Victorian's used a combination of vinegar and lemon juice to lighten the skin, either applied directly or consumed. The Victorians focused on enhancing natural beauty and was also the era that brunettes were seen as beautiful. No eye shadows or lipsticks were used but various lip tints were used to show a natural red or pink.


http://vintagemakeupguide.com/victorian-look/

Queen Victoria

by Lady Julia Abercromby, after Heinrich von Angeli
watercolour, 1883 (1875)
57 3/8 in. x 38 1/2 in. (1457 mm x 978 mm)
Given by Lady Julia Abercromby, 1883
NPG 708

http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portraitLarge/mw06517/Queen-Victoria?search=sp&sText=queen+victoria&wPage=1&rNo=23

As you can see in the painting of Queen Victoria Her face is very flawless and no make up is to be seen. 

The many portrayals of Miss havisham

I never thought in my life that i would read a Charles Dickens book and actually enjoy it! This book being Great expectations, one of the most fascinating characters was Miss Havisham.

Miss Havisham is a wealthy spinster who asked for pip ( a poor orphan boy) to keep her adopted daughter Estella company. Later into the book you realize that miss Havisham was 'jilted' at the alter which is why she wore an old tattered wedding dress and kept the reception room decorated exactly the same as it would of been on her wedding day. In the book Miss Havisham is described as 'the witch of the place' , being in her mid 50's and looking like a cross between a waxwork and a skeleton.  Once you do a bit of research via internet and watching the different Film/Tv versions of the book you realize that Miss Havisham has been portrayed in many ways.

Great Expectations 1934

directed by Stuart walker 

In this film version of Great expectations, Miss Havisham is played by actress Florence Reed.

As you can see by this picture, Miss Havisham has been portrayed as in her 50's like Charles dickens described although I feel she just looks like a grandma. She is not wearing an old wedding dress like described in the book and hardly looks under nourished. Because of the era this film was made i assume they did best with what they had, had it been made in the modern time im sure she would look very much like Charles dickens described. 

Great expectations 1946

Directed by David Lean

Miss havisham- Martia Hunt 

In this version of Great expectations Miss Havisham is seen in a georgian wedding dress. The attire Charles dickens originally wanted. Fresh faced make-up and eccentric hair to match her personality. I think that she looks more frail than in the 1934 version, you can tell by looking at her hands and she seems to drown in her wedding dress. 

Great expectations 1974 tv movie 

Directed by Joseph hardy 

Miss Havisham is played by Margaret Leighton. 

This portrayal of Miss Havisham is far better than the one before. 

Still shown as in her 50's but this time wearing a wedding dress like described although for someone who wore a wedding dress every day years after her 'wedding day' the dress doesn't half look clean!

As you can see make up skills developed in  the last 40 years but I feel this look is more theatrical where as the 1934 version is more natural. 

Great expectations 1981- mini series.

Directed by Julian Amyes. 

Miss Havisham Portrayed by Joan Hickson 

In the tv mini series Miss Havisham is seen wearing her hair in tight curls, not as eccentric as the 1974 movie. The wedding dress a champagne colour rather than dirty from years of use. 

Light make-up again apart from make up to extenuate her bags under her eyes and wrinkles in her skin. Miss Havisham is shown wearing more jewelry in this version showing off her wealth.   

1989 mini series 

Miss havisham played by Jean simmons (jean also played estella in 1946 version) 

Directed by Kevin Connor 

I personally think that miss havisham looks like a haggered old lady than a crazy spinster. I find it hard to tell that she is wearing a wedding dress other than the veil worn as a hood. Again plain make up but some used to accentuate the lines and wrinkles. 

1999 Tv movie 

Miss havisham played by charlotte Rampling

Directed by Julian Jarold 

In this tv movie miss Havisham seems to have gotten a lot younger, late 30's early 40's. So young that not one grey hair is shown! Although her hair isn't as crazy as the other versions, i love how sophisticated and slick this up do is.I also appreciate the crown showing her power. Fresh faced once again this seems to be a theme in most make up looks for this character 

2011 tv mini series.
directed by 

Played by Gillian anderson.

Is it me or as the years go by Miss Havisham seems to get younger!
This is actually one of my favourite looks by far even if miss havisham has discovered a youth elixir.
The hair , the wedding dress , the dead flowers  makes this character so believable. Fresh faced, pale and fragile Gillian shows a true crazy miss havisham.



2012 Movie
Played by Helena Boham Carter

Okay i have changed my mind! This is my favourite version of Miss Havisham! Who better to play her than an Eccentric Actress! It was no surprise to actress having big hair in another fabulous role
she quotes 'we tried not to go for big hair but everything is growing, decaying' 

1934.
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02063/Florence-Reed3_2063022i.jpg
1946
http://home.bt.com/images/great-expectations-136387809339903901-140221120742.jpg
1974.
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02062/Margaret-Leighton_2062993i.jpg
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0071576/?ref_=fn_al_tt_9
1981 
http://home.bt.com/images/great-expectations-136387809339903901-140221120742.jpg
1989
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02062/Joan-Simmons_2062995i.jpg
1999
http://resources0.news.com.au/images/2012/12/06/1226530/563728-121208-rev-rampling.jpg
2011
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02063/Gilian-Anderson5_2063010i.jpg
2012

http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02063/Bonham-Carter_2063039i.jpg 

Gothic Horror - Introduction

When someone says Gothic horror my mind instantly wonders to the likes of Mary Shelley's Frankenstein and Actors such as Boris Karloff  I've never been so excited to do my research as these are things i would look into in my spare time let alone for a project! So what is Gothic Horror and where does it all start?

Gothic horror formula

Take a Dark and creepy location - Old castle, rotting house etc
Add a theme- Vampires, death, depression, Tragic romance
throw in a mysterious atmosphere
and lots of metaphors! 'The wind howled'

Where did Gothic Horror begin?

It all began in literature, it is thought to be originally invented by author Horace Wapole in 1764 but didn't really become popular until the Victorian period.

The most common Gothic horror stories 
Dracula
Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde
Frankenstein